Canarian food is simple, honest and full of flavour: wrinkled potatoes with spicy sauces, fresh fish, goat’s cheese and home-made wine. It is nothing like the international menus in the resorts. Here is what to order, and how to find the places where we actually eat.
Quick answer: order papas arrugadas with mojo, grilled local fish, cheese from the islands and a barraquito coffee. To eat like a local, leave the seafront and look for a family-run place full of Canarians at lunchtime, or a guachinche in the north of Tenerife.
The dishes you have to try
| Dish | What it is |
|---|---|
| Papas arrugadas | Small potatoes boiled in very salty water until the skin wrinkles. Eaten with the skin on. |
| Mojo rojo and mojo verde | The famous sauces. Red mojo is made with peppers and is spicier; green mojo uses coriander or parsley. |
| Gofio | Toasted grain flour, a staple since the time of the original islanders. Found in soups, desserts and mixed with milk. |
| Queso canario | Cheeses from the islands, often from goat’s milk, such as Majorero from Fuerteventura, Flor de Guía from Gran Canaria and Palmero from La Palma. |
| Pescado fresco | Fresh local fish, usually grilled or fried. Ask for the fish of the day, such as vieja, cherne or sama. |
| Carne de cabra | Slow-cooked goat stew, a classic in the countryside. |
| Conejo en salmorejo | Rabbit in a garlic, wine and paprika marinade. |
| Ropa vieja | Chickpeas with shredded meat and potatoes, a filling local favourite. |
| Potaje de berros | A hearty watercress soup, often with gofio. |
| Lapas con mojo | Grilled limpets with green mojo, a seaside classic. |
| Barraquito | A layered coffee from Tenerife with condensed milk, liqueur, lemon and cinnamon. |
Desserts and sweets
- Bienmesabe: a sweet almond cream, delicious with ice cream.
- Quesillo: the Canarian version of crème caramel, made with condensed milk.
- Frangollo: a traditional dessert made from maize, milk, raisins and almonds.
- Miel de palma: palm syrup from La Gomera, poured over desserts and cheese.
Specialities island by island
- Tenerife: guachinches in the north, barraquito coffee, and wine from the valleys of La Orotava and Tacoronte-Acentejo.
- Gran Canaria: Flor de Guía cheese, rum from the north of the island and bienmesabe from the mountain village of Tejeda.
- Lanzarote: Malvasía wine from the volcanic vineyards of La Geria, where each vine grows in its own hollow in the ash.
- Fuerteventura: Majorero goat’s cheese, one of the most famous cheeses in Spain.
- La Gomera: almogrote, a spicy cheese spread, and miel de palma.
- La Palma: Palmero cheese and traditional pastries.
What is a guachinche?
A guachinche is one of the best food experiences in Tenerife. Traditionally, it is a simple, family-run place in the north of the island where the owners sell the wine they make, together with a short menu of home cooking: grilled meat, potatoes, croquettes, stews. Prices are usually low, the atmosphere is noisy and very local, and some are only open part of the year.
Local tip: many guachinches have no website and some only take cash. Ask locals for their favourite, go at lunchtime and do not expect a long menu: just order what the table next to you is eating.
How to find good local restaurants
- Follow the locals: a place full of Canarian families at 2 pm on a Sunday is a very good sign.
- Leave the seafront: the best value is often a street or two back, or in the next village.
- Fishing villages: small harbours usually have a simple restaurant serving the day’s catch.
- Be careful with photo menus in five languages: they are rarely where locals eat.
Eating times
Canarians eat later than British visitors. Lunch is usually between about 1:30 pm and 3:30 pm and dinner from around 8:30 pm. Resort restaurants open earlier, but local places can be quiet if you arrive at 6 pm.
Frequently asked questions
Is Canarian food spicy?
Not usually. Only red mojo can be spicy, and it is served on the side, so you control how much you use.
Do I need to tip in the Canary Islands?
Tipping is not expected as it is in some countries. Locals often leave small change or round up the bill when the service was good.
Can vegetarians eat well?
Yes, although traditional menus are heavy on meat and fish. Papas arrugadas with mojo, local cheese, salads, watercress soup without meat and gofio dishes are good options. Ask, because some stews are made with meat stock.
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