Category: Travel Tips

Renting a car is the best way to discover the Canary Islands. Buses exist, but the most beautiful places, from mountain villages to wild beaches, are much easier to reach on your own. I have driven these roads all my life, so here is what visitors need to know.

Quick answer: yes, rent a car if you want to explore. Book early in high season, choose insurance with no excess, check the rules before taking the car on a ferry, and give yourself more time than the map says on mountain roads.

Do you need a car in the Canary Islands?

• You can skip it if: you are staying in a resort and only want the beach, the pool and the occasional organised excursion.
• You need one if: you want to see the mountains, the national parks, the villages or the quieter beaches. On the smaller islands, such as La Palma, La Gomera and El Hierro, a car makes a huge difference.

What you need to rent a car

• Driving licence: a valid licence from your country. UK photocard licences are accepted for visitors.
• Passport or ID: always required at the desk.
• Age: most companies require drivers to be at least 21, and many add a young driver fee under 25.
• Card: many companies ask for a credit card in the main driver’s name for the deposit. Check whether debit cards are accepted before you book.

Insurance and deposits: read this before you book

The cheapest prices online often come with a high excess and a large deposit blocked on your card, plus pressure to buy extra insurance at the desk. Several companies on the islands include full insurance with no excess and no deposit in the price. Compare the total cost, not just the daily rate.

• Check what the excess is and whether tyres, glass and the underside of the car are covered.
• Check the fuel policy. “Full to full” is usually the fairest.
• Take photos and a video of the car before you drive away.

Can you take a rental car on the ferry?

Sometimes. Many rental companies do not allow it, or only allow it with written permission and an extra charge. If you plan to visit another island, ask before you book. Often it is easier to go as a foot passenger and rent another car on the other island.

Driving rules

Parking

• Blue lines: paid parking, usually with a time limit. Pay at the machine or with an app.
• White lines: usually free.
• Yellow lines: no parking.

Local tip: never leave valuables in a parked car, especially at beaches and viewpoints. Take everything with you or leave it at the hotel.

Mountain roads

The islands are very steep. Roads to places like Mount Teide, Anaga, the centre of Gran Canaria or La Gomera are full of bends, and a short distance on the map can take a long time. Drive slowly, use your horn before blind bends on narrow roads, watch for cyclists and keep an eye on the fuel gauge, because petrol stations are rare in the mountains.

The good news: fuel in the Canary Islands is usually cheaper than in mainland Spain or the UK, because of lower local taxes.

Frequently asked questions

Is it easy to drive in the Canary Islands?

Yes. Motorways along the coasts are modern and easy. Mountain roads need more care, but they are well maintained and signposted.

Should I book at the airport?

Picking up at the airport is the most convenient option. Book in advance, especially at Christmas, Easter and in summer, when cars can run out and prices go up.

Do I need an international driving permit?

Visitors with a UK or EU licence do not normally need one. If your licence is from another country, check the official requirements of the Spanish traffic authority, the DGT, before you travel.

Rules and rental conditions change. Check the conditions of your rental company and the official DGT rules before you drive.

Canarian food is simple, honest and full of flavour: wrinkled potatoes with spicy sauces, fresh fish, goat’s cheese and home-made wine. It is nothing like the international menus in the resorts. Here is what to order, and how to find the places where we actually eat.

Quick answer: order papas arrugadas with mojo, grilled local fish, cheese from the islands and a barraquito coffee. To eat like a local, leave the seafront and look for a family-run place full of Canarians at lunchtime, or a guachinche in the north of Tenerife.

The dishes you have to try

Desserts and sweets

• Bienmesabe: a sweet almond cream, delicious with ice cream.
• Quesillo: the Canarian version of crème caramel, made with condensed milk.
• Frangollo: a traditional dessert made from maize, milk, raisins and almonds.
• Miel de palma: palm syrup from La Gomera, poured over desserts and cheese.

Specialities island by island

• Tenerife: guachinches in the north, barraquito coffee, and wine from the valleys of La Orotava and Tacoronte-Acentejo.
• Gran Canaria: Flor de Guía cheese, rum from the north of the island and bienmesabe from the mountain village of Tejeda.
• Lanzarote: Malvasía wine from the volcanic vineyards of La Geria, where each vine grows in its own hollow in the ash.
• Fuerteventura: Majorero goat’s cheese, one of the most famous cheeses in Spain.
• La Gomera: almogrote, a spicy cheese spread, and miel de palma.
• La Palma: Palmero cheese and traditional pastries.

What is a guachinche?

A guachinche is one of the best food experiences in Tenerife. Traditionally, it is a simple, family-run place in the north of the island where the owners sell the wine they make, together with a short menu of home cooking: grilled meat, potatoes, croquettes, stews. Prices are usually low, the atmosphere is noisy and very local, and some are only open part of the year.

Local tip: many guachinches have no website and some only take cash. Ask locals for their favourite, go at lunchtime and do not expect a long menu: just order what the table next to you is eating.

How to find good local restaurants

• Follow the locals: a place full of Canarian families at 2 pm on a Sunday is a very good sign.
• Leave the seafront: the best value is often a street or two back, or in the next village.
• Fishing villages: small harbours usually have a simple restaurant serving the day’s catch.
• Be careful with photo menus in five languages: they are rarely where locals eat.

Eating times

Canarians eat later than British visitors. Lunch is usually between about 1:30 pm and 3:30 pm and dinner from around 8:30 pm. Resort restaurants open earlier, but local places can be quiet if you arrive at 6 pm.

Frequently asked questions

Is Canarian food spicy?

Not usually. Only red mojo can be spicy, and it is served on the side, so you control how much you use.

Do I need to tip in the Canary Islands?

Tipping is not expected as it is in some countries. Locals often leave small change or round up the bill when the service was good.

Can vegetarians eat well?

Yes, although traditional menus are heavy on meat and fish. Papas arrugadas with mojo, local cheese, salads, watercress soup without meat and gofio dishes are good options. Ask, because some stews are made with meat stock.

The Canary Islands are known as the islands of eternal spring, and it is true: there is no bad month to visit. But the best time depends on what you want. Here is how the year really feels, from someone who has lived through every season here.

Quick answer: for warm sea and long beach days, September and October are the best months. For mild weather and fewer families, May and June. For winter sun, November to March is warmer than almost anywhere else in Europe, although the sea is cooler.

The year at a glance

As a rough guide, daytime temperatures on the sunny southern coasts are around the low 20s °C in winter and the high 20s °C in summer. The sea is roughly 18–19 °C at its coolest in late winter and around 23–24 °C at its warmest in early autumn. These are approximate averages; each island and each coast is different.

Winter: December, January and February

This is high season for visitors from northern Europe, who come for the winter sun. Days are often sunny and pleasant on the coast, but evenings are cool and the mountains can be cold. Mount Teide in Tenerife sometimes gets snow, which is an amazing sight from the beach.

• Bring: a jumper or light jacket for the evenings, and warm clothes if you go up to the mountains.
• Carnival: the carnivals of Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, in February or March depending on the year, are among the biggest in the world.
• Waves: winter brings the biggest swell, great for surfers but rougher for swimming on north-facing coasts.

Spring: March, April and May

Spring is a lovely time for walking: the hills are at their greenest after the winter rain and wild flowers are out. Easter is busy and prices go up, but May is one of the best value months of the year, with good weather and fewer crowds.

Summer: June, July and August

My favourite time of year, because I surf. It is hot, dry and reliably sunny. July and August are the busiest months, with families from Spain and the rest of Europe on holiday. The trade winds blow strongly in summer, especially in Fuerteventura and Lanzarote, which keeps the heat bearable and makes those islands perfect for kitesurfing and windsurfing at beaches like Sotavento, one of my favourite beaches in the Canaries.

Local tip: in summer the north of Tenerife is often under a layer of cloud while the south is sunny. If it is grey where you are, drive for half an hour and you may find the sun.

Autumn: September, October and November

For many visitors, the best time of year. The sea is at its warmest, the summer crowds have gone and the weather is usually warm and settled. It is the best season for swimming, snorkelling and diving, and the surf season starts again in October.

What is calima?

A few times a year, wind from the Sahara brings dust to the islands. The sky turns hazy and orange, temperatures can rise and the air can feel heavy. This is called calima. It usually lasts a few days. If you have breathing problems, stay indoors when it is strong and follow local health advice.

Best time by activity

• Beach and swimming: June to October.
• Hiking: October to May, when it is cooler and greener.
• Surfing: October to March.
• Kitesurf and windsurf: summer, when the trade winds are strongest.
• Good value and fewer crowds: May, June and late September.

Frequently asked questions

Is it warm enough to swim in the Canary Islands in winter?

Many people do, especially visitors from northern Europe. The sea is cool, so expect a fresh first dip. Heated hotel pools are common.

Which month has the best weather?

For most people, September and October: warm air, the warmest sea and fewer crowds than summer.

Does it rain in the Canary Islands?

Not much, and mostly between November and March. The eastern islands, Lanzarote and Fuerteventura, are the driest. The north of the western islands gets the most cloud and rain, which is why it is so green.

Check the official forecast from AEMET, the Spanish weather service, before your trip.

Every Canary Island is different. Some are made for beach holidays, some for hiking, some for doing very little at all. I was born in Tenerife and I have been to all of them, so here is the honest version: which island suits which kind of trip.

Quick answer: for a first visit with a bit of everything, choose Tenerife or Gran Canaria. For beaches and surf, Fuerteventura. For volcanic landscapes and design, Lanzarote. For hiking and nature with few crowds, La Palma, La Gomera or El Hierro.

The eight islands compared

Tenerife: the island with everything

The largest island has the most variety: sunny resorts in the south, a green and traditional north, the old university city of La Laguna, the cliffs of Los Gigantes, the forests of Anaga and Mount Teide, the highest peak in Spain. If you only visit one island, this is a very safe choice.

Choose it if: you want beaches, day trips and nature in one holiday. Skip it if: you want somewhere small and quiet everywhere.

Gran Canaria: dunes, mountains and a real city

Gran Canaria is often called a continent in miniature. The south has the dunes of Maspalomas and reliable sun, the centre has dramatic mountain roads and villages, and Las Palmas is a proper city with a long urban beach, Las Canteras.

Choose it if: you want variety plus city life. Skip it if: you only want to see small villages.

Lanzarote: volcanoes and César Manrique

Black lava fields, red volcanoes and low white houses. Lanzarote was shaped by eruptions in the 18th and 19th centuries and by the artist César Manrique, who helped protect it from high-rise building. Timanfaya National Park and the vineyards of La Geria are unlike anything else in Europe.

Choose it if: you love landscapes, design and calm. Skip it if: you want green forests.

Fuerteventura: the beach island

Fuerteventura has the longest and emptiest beaches in the Canary Islands, from the dunes of Corralejo in the north to the endless sands of Jandía in the south. It is also the surf and kitesurf capital of the islands. Inland it is dry and quiet.

Choose it if: your holiday is about the beach and the sea. Skip it if: you dislike wind.

La Palma: the green island

Steep, green and wonderfully unspoilt, La Palma is one of the best islands for hiking, with the huge Caldera de Taburiente at its heart. Its skies are protected for astronomy, which makes it one of the best places in Europe for stargazing.

La Gomera: forests and valleys

La Gomera is a short ferry ride from Tenerife and feels a world away. Deep ravines, terraced valleys and the misty laurel forest of Garajonay National Park make it a paradise for walkers. It is also home to the Silbo Gomero, a whistled language still taught in schools.

El Hierro: peace and diving

The smallest of the main islands and the least visited. El Hierro is about nature, silence and the sea, and the marine reserve around La Restinga is one of the best diving areas in Spain. Come here to switch off completely.

La Graciosa: the tiny island

Just off the north of Lanzarote, La Graciosa has sand streets, no paved roads and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Canaries. Most people visit on a day trip by ferry from Órzola in Lanzarote.

Which island for which kind of trip?

• Families: Tenerife, Gran Canaria or Fuerteventura, for easy beaches and plenty to do.
• Couples: Lanzarote, or the quieter parts of Tenerife and Gran Canaria.
• Hikers: La Palma, La Gomera and the north of Tenerife.
• Surfers and kitesurfers: Fuerteventura and Lanzarote.
• Nightlife: the south of Tenerife and Gran Canaria.
• Total peace: El Hierro, La Gomera or La Graciosa.

Can you visit more than one island?

Yes, and it is a great idea. Ferries connect most islands, and there are short inter-island flights. Easy combinations are Tenerife with La Gomera, Lanzarote with Fuerteventura or La Graciosa, and Gran Canaria with Tenerife.

Frequently asked questions

Which Canary Island has the best weather?

All of them are mild all year. For the most sunshine, stay in the south of Tenerife or Gran Canaria, or anywhere on Lanzarote and Fuerteventura. The north of the western islands is greener because it gets more cloud.

Which Canary Island is the most beautiful?

It depends on what you find beautiful. For green mountains, La Palma and La Gomera. For volcanic landscapes, Lanzarote. For beaches, Fuerteventura. Tenerife has a bit of all of them.

Which island is best for a first visit?

Tenerife or Gran Canaria. They have the most flights, the most choice of places to stay and the widest range of things to do.